Mind the GapsI own a pair of '66 Mustang coupes, one of which is undergoing a full restoration. Have you ever heard of a publication that contains door, fender, hood, and trunk-lid gap measurements? Someone told me such a publication exists.Peter ScerriCanberra, Austria
I'm sure there are some guidelines in print from Ford that provide the specifications for the various panel gaps, but I don't know of anything specifically for '66 Mustangs.
I've measured the panel gaps on three '66 Mustangs with the original paint using a panel gauge from Production Tool Company (888/487-9002). This gauge is used by the Chrysler Assembly Plant in Belvedere, Illinois. A good friend who owns several Mustangs obtained one for us to use in our shop. The gaps on these Mustangs varied from approximately 2.5 mm to 5 mm.
We try to achieve a 2.5mm to 3.5mm gap on our restorations. Keep in mind that more than 40 years ago, there was less quality control than on today's '07 Mustang production. The '66 Mustangs were a mass-produced, low-end Ford product-not Thunderbirds or Lincolns.
Some restorers like to use the above points to justify poor restoration workmanship in their paint and body work. This philosophy is wrong, because the quality of Ford's paint and body during the '65-'66 era was the best in the industry. Ford's baked-acrylic enamel was the most durable paint to ever come out of Detroit. There's a big difference between assembly line workmanship and poor restoration quality.
Mach 1 VerificationDuring my lifetime, I've owned five Mach 1s. For the past 12 years, I've owned a salvaged Grabber Green '70 Mach that had previously undergone a 5-year, total restoration. It was time to relax, so I reluctantly listed the car on eBay. I went through great pains to provide all the details, including it not being original and that I had a California salvage title.
Now the car is on a boat halfway around the world, and the buyer states that he just got his Marti Report on the car. It says the original color was gold with a ginger interior. I can honestly say I've never seen a gold '70 Mach 1. The new owner further states that the door certification label, which shows the car's VIN, conflicts with the Marti Report. The VIN starts with 0R05.
It's hard to imagine that whoever restored the car was trying to deceive anyone. If so, why would they leave the VIN of a salvaged vehicle intact?
Does the "05" in the VIN indicate where the car was manufactured or is that the code for a genuine Mach 1? What are the correct codes for the color and trim for a Grabber Green car with black interior?Stan VeenstraVia the Internet
According to the '70 Ford Illustrated Facts and Specifications manual, the "05" in the VIN indicates a two-door fastback Mach 1 Mustang. The second letter in the VIN indicates the assembly plant; letter R is for San Jose, California.
The color code for Grabber Green is Z. The interior trim code for '70 Mach 1 black is 3A.
There were two shades of gold offered for '70 models: Bright Gold Metallic, code K, and Medium Gold Metallic, code S. The interior trim code for a ginger Mach 1 is 3F.
A Marti Report is hard to dispute.
Charcoal BlackI'm restoring a '67 Mustang, and I need your help with the paint mix number, as well as the code for the black/charcoal color used on the '67 Mustang instrument panel. Can you provide the Ford number as well as PPG, DuPont, and (preferably) Nexa Auto Color?Joe BorgVia the Internet
I can tell you that the PPG code is 32586. We use the DIA-32586 in our shop.
Cowl ReproI'm currently restoring a '70 Boss 302, which should've been slated for the scrap yard. The entire roof, floors, torque boxes, frame-rails, and all the trunk metal must be replaced. Before I begin reassembly and preparation for paint, I've noticed that the cowl panel is in need of drastic repair. I understand there is a company ready to reproduce all of the sheetmetal for the '70 fastback. Are you aware of this? I plan to repair the cowl with fiberglass but would rather use new sheetmetal if becomes available.Prof. Lee NetterVia the Internet
I'm not aware of the '69-'70 cowl panel as a reproduction. The cowl area is the same for the Boss and a '69-'70 hardtop. We recently purchased a '69 hardtop in Las Vegas to use as a parts car to replace the cowl and firewall in a '69 Ford Drag Team Mustang we're restoring. If you contact a West Coast Mustang shop, it can cut what you need from a rust-free hardtop.
I would suggest not using fiberglass to repair your cowl if you intend to keep the car for a long time. It sounds as though you already have a lot of time invested in the project.
[Editor's note: Thanks to Dynacorn's new '67 Mustang fastback body, a reproduction cowl panel (pictured) for '67-'68 Mustangs is now available. See "How to Replace a Cowl Panel" in the Nov. '06 issue, page 42, for details. Dynacorn has stated that the '69-70 Mustang fastback may be one of its next targets. If that happens, a cowl-panel reproduction will be a fortunate by-product.]