Stick With Original Parts Where Possible
Laurie Slawson
Gold Card Judge
Tucson, Arizona
Laurie Slawson was there for the original Mustang mania that swept the nation 45 years ago. Her father, Lou Slawson, was a Ford sales executive who knew all about the Mustang when it was being developed during the early '60s. In June 1968, Laurie took delivery of a Sunlit Gold Mustang hardtop from a Detroit-area Ford dealer. That car remains with her today.
While Laurie's passion for the Mustang dates back to the '60s, it didn't catch fire until the early '80s when her hardtop started growing older and she wanted to keep it like new. She became determined to learn about classic Mustang restoration and how to do it herself. Today, she is a Mustang Club of America Gold Card judge who also serves on the MCA's Board of Directors.
Bag and tag. Whenever you start a restoration, catalog and account for every part, even if you intend to throw it away.
Restore original parts. If you have a choice between original parts and reproduction, restore the original part where possible in the interest of authenticity.
Lacquer thinner works best for removing paint overspray.
Restore wiring harness to like-new condition. Use hand cleaner with lanolin to refresh insulation before wrapping with electrical tape. Lanolin works on old vacuum hoses and weatherstripping, too. It softens and makes things flexible again without making surfaces shiny.
Use a toothbrush for detail work. "A toothbrush is one of the handiest tools you can have when restoring a Mustang," Laurie comments. Use it with Simple Green to remove grease and oil film from hard-to-reach areas.
Use a clay bar to bring old paint back. Clay bar removes embedded dirt and other contaminants from the paint, leaving a smooth, shiny finish when you thought all hope was lost.
Fine (000) steel wool. It removes stubborn water spots from glass. It also restores chrome that is not peppered with rust and pitting.
Remove all traces of grease and oil film. When restoring parts, use Spic & Span in water followed by a wipe down with a degreaser. Don't touch the part with your bare hands because skin oil will hinder the paint's ability to stick.
Make screw holes. When installing an interior, use an ice pick or scratch awl to poke console screw holes in the carpet. Then use a soldering iron to burn/melt permanent screw holes for easy location.
If you're building a restomod, hide all electronics where possible. Route wiring inside framerails and under inner fender aprons. Opt for the best quality electrical components available. For example, don't use a cheap distributor cap with aluminum terminals. Go with brass or copper along with the best insulating material.
Tired of losing seat mount fasteners in the seat pan? Use a short section of paper towel roll stuffed in the seat mount hole for perfect access without fastener loss and rattle.
Don't use cheap exhaust gaskets. Spend money on the best header gaskets you can find. Then use locking header bolts to keep things secure.
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