Eat the elephant one portion at a time
Jim Smart
Senior Editor, Mustang Monthly
Palmdale, CA
In 35 years of working with vintage Mustangs, I've learned a lot about restoration, much of it from some of the best in the business. I am experienced, but I always believe I can learn something new. If there is a bitter lesson in restoration, I've probably learned it at one time or another. Although I earn my living writing about restoration, I can always be mistaken and will likely be mistaken again. Here's some of what I've learned from my restoration experience.
Hold off. If there's even a slim chance of losing your job, do not begin a restoration project. I'm talking layoff, a boss who just doesn't like you, or a floundering economy in your area that could lead to job loss. Nothing quite takes the wind out of your sails like a pink slip and a car that's completely torn apart. Sit tight until you are sure you are secure. Hold off some more. If there's even a hint you might be headed for divorce or some kind of domestic upheaval, including the birth of a baby or the dreaded uncle no one can stand moving in with you, do not begin a restoration. Learn as much as you can. Don't be afraid to try something you've never tackled before. Worst that can happen is that you'll have to do it again. Try anything a first time and aim for success. Learn as much as you can about it first. One step at a time. Never try to mentally take on an entire project at once. Do it one step at a time and have a plan beforehand. Don't try to eat the entire elephant in one sitting. Research, research, research. Canvass the Internet, good technical books, and magazines (Mustang Monthly for one, we hope) for great ideas you can learn from. Paint peel. The best restorations have a hint of orange peel in the paint. That means you don't have to work as hard. Punch the welds. Use a 3/4-inch tip center punch to make "spot welds" at your joints. Think about the weight. When you adjust doors and fenders, make an allowance for weight if you haven't installed windows and mechanisms. Begin window adjustment with the wing window assembly and work your way back. Achieve good seal at the wing and door window (window up), then do the quarter window (hardtops and convertibles). The quarter window leading edge should be in line with the door gap. In other words, a straight line from the door bottom right through the quarter window leading edge. San Jose emblems were inconsistent. Did you know San Jose assembly plant incorrectly positioned front fender emblems during '64 1/2-'70? They were all hand drilled and installed. Many of them were cockeyed from the factory. If you'd rather have emblems and letters that are truly straight, use a Dearborn or Metuchen fender and make a template. Make door and fender adjustments beginning with the door. Adjust the door to the quarter panel first and set the gap. Use the bottom gap and B-pillar gaps as your primary reference points. Then adjust the fender to the door with the same kind of gapping. Adjust from the top down because the top is the first thing you see. Then the beltline, followed by the bottom gap. Most important hood adjustment point. It's the leading edge at the headlight doors. Cooling system woes can be easily solved if you remember the basics: plenty of radiator (four-row core), right fan for the application, fan shroud with the fan positioned half way in, 180-degree thermostat, molded hoses with anti-collapse spring in the bottom hose, fresh water pump free from scale, and head gaskets installed properly.